Empordaguia


Portbou, Gateway to the Costa Brava

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Portbou is always worth a visit. Its strategic position on the border shaped its history, and its buildings are determined by exile and the construction of the railway station in the late 19th C. Apart from its cultural interest, the towns has natural riches and a wonderful setting. Surrounded by rough mountains and with a transparent Mediterranean at its feet, Portbou offers visitors unique places to discover. Its mountains, part of the Albera range, are one of its least known aspects. The so-called forest of Portbou surrounds the town and is part of the European Network of protected landscapes, the Network Nature 2000.

Setting out from the Paseo Maritimo on the seafront by the tourist office, you can reach the Frare pass on foot by the well signposted Ronda path (GR 92) that goes to Colera along the coast. You can also do this first part by car, leaving Portbou towards Figueres. Just before the first tunnel turn left to the signposted mirador. From this balcony on the sea you can admire both the harbour of Portbou as swell as the Cap de Creus.
In Portbou the Tramuntana blows frequently. On the 200 metre high Frare pass, it makes a deafening noise when it blows strongly. It reminds you of ululating ghosts, but if you remember the name of the pass, you can’t avoid thinking of praying monks. From this elevation, on the border between Portbou and Colera, the views over Llançà and Port de la Selva are impressive. This is where you can really appreciate Portbou as gateway to the Costa Brava.
The Frare pass is a great starting point for various excursions. A wide and comfortable track leads through the forest, suitable for groups or families. You can also cycle along this track. It follows the mountain around Portbou and in many places offers shelter from the Tramuntana. The Quatre Camins pass is only 2.5 Kilometres away. From here you can choose various alternatives. Most itineraries are circular and between 10 and 15 Kms long.

Thyme, Rosemary and Sage grow between the pines and Holm oak, providing that unmistakable smell of the Mediterranean. The area is perfectly maintained. The lengths of cut tree trunks that lie in regular intervals by the track show that the forest is taken care of and cleaned. The communication work of the authorities is also exemplary, stimulating the public’s interest for this public space and its conservation. Information panels explain the origins and effects of the Tramuntana, the prevention of forest fires, or the local flora and fauna. Such information awakens the interest of visitors to discover, understand, and respect this privileged area. Nino Blancafort

 


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