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In the foothills of the Alberes, mountains that dive from the Pyrenees into the Mediterranean, lies the Monastery of Camp de Garriguella, the last resort of the Mediterranean turtle in Catalonia.
A Medieval Village Hidden Behind a Casino
Coming from Figueres, we arrive at the public parking of Peralada. Everybody has heard of Peralada, above all because of the casino installed in the castle many years ago and because of the music festival. Behind the international showcase hides a small, fortified medieval village founded by the Emperor Charlemagne. Enter the town through an arch in the walls. Through twisted streets and alleys lined with latticed windows and balconies we reach the porches on the square and the church. Higher up, past the museum, we reach the Romanesque cloister, the last remains of the Augustine Monastery of Sant Domènec. Among the handful of capitals of various styles with figures of plants and animals, one attracts our attention: Adam and Eve in paradise with a tree that carries figs instead of apples.
We now leave the village and head north around the castle walls and take the road to Garriguella. After about two kilometres we take the road to Mollet de Peralada and then turn right to the north towards the Orlina River. We don’t cross the river but head towards Delfià along the bank. We cross several streams that carry some water after the rains. Throughout the ride on the riverbank, the atmosphere is comfortingly fresh. If we pay attention we can enjoy the flight of the colourful bee-eaters. Delfià is a hamlet of some 18 houses that depends on Rabòs. A church dedicated to Saint Roman and a bridge over the Orlina are its main attractions.
The Mediterranean Turtle Reproduction Centre
On reaching the C-252 we turn right and ride through three kilometres of olive groves and vineyards that have made Garriguella famous. We enter the upper part of town and immediately see a sign indicating the Monestir del Camp, only one kilometre away towards Vilamaniscle. Some benches and tables in the shade welcome us at the door of the Monastery; here we can regain forces if we have thought of bringing a snack. Inside the walls, the bishopric has provided some land for the Turtle Reproduction Centre, which raises native Mediterranean turtles. This is a land species that is in grave danger of extinction. The numbers in the wild have been severely reduced by people taking them off as pets for their patios and gardens. To fight the danger of extinction, 200 to 300 of these herbivorous reptiles are released each year in the Albera range. On the other hand, the centre takes in exotic turtles that have been illegally imported and cares for them until they can be returned to their place of origin. Until recently they also collected the popular Florida turtles, but so many are sold in our country that this has become impossible. The problems of the ecosystems inhabited by this invasive species, and the complete lack of limits on imports and sales by the administration make the task of controlling these animals impossible for such a small centre as this.//
Don’t get lost:
Take the C-252 from Figueres to Peralada. From Peralada to Garriguella always head north, without crossing the Orlina before Delfià. Then take the C-603 to Garriguella. On the way back, take the C-252 from Garriguella to Peralada.
Don’t miss this:
The streets of the walled town of Peralada. The cloister of Sant Domènec. The grilles of balconies and windows. The landscape of olive groves and vineyards. The guided tour of the Mediterranean Turtle Reproduction Centre of Garriguella.
Technical details:
Easy morning excursion; 18 kilometres long.
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